The Sandpoint Eater: Let us eat cake!

By Marcia Pilgeram
Reader Columnist

Our days in Ireland are waning, and every time I ready myself to return home from here, packed alongside my tired clothes and a handful of edible souvenirs, is a wee bit more Irish spirit.

This trip was planned nearly a year ago. When each of my grandchildren approaches their first double-digit birthday, I offer them a trip to a destination of their choice. This year, it was Ryanne’s only daughter Fern’s turn for “the trip.” I could not have been happier when she chose Ireland. Her mom decided we couldn’t leave home without her, so plans of a springtime journey for three were set into motion.

I’ve been fortunate to visit Ireland a dozen or so times, often staying with the same friends in Kerry and West Cork for more than 20 years, and the ways of the Irish have become second nature to me. They’re friendly beyond measure, generous in heart, delightfully impish and kind to the core.

It didn’t take long for Fern and Ryanne to experience the ways of the Irish for themselves. 

They learned to never admire anything out loud or they would soon own it. And never to inquire about a house, a yard or an animal we passed on the road, or we’d soon be pulling into a driveway and knocking at the neighbor’s (or stranger’s) door for additional information. Tea and cake may be included in these impromptu visits.

We agreed that we’ve eaten more than our share of cakes and pastries in the past two weeks. Most of our daily scenic drives included at least one (and often two) tea stops to a local hotel lobby. Invariably our stops were lengthy, as our hosts seemed to be related to (or at least know) the owner, the manager or the cook. Or all of the above.

Some hotels offer tea and cake to arriving guests, like the late-Myrtle Allen’s renowned Ballymaloe House. Upon our arrival we were directed to the stately drawing room for a serving of raspberry sponge cake — a specialty that has been served in the manor for decades. Room’s not quite ready? Who cares!

The girls were also astounded by the country cab drivers, who are mostly retired, affable gents just looking to keep themselves busy. Our favorite was Gerard, who drove us from Ballymaloe House to Cork City. Ryanne inquired if Gerard had any hobbies, and we learned he was growing wine grapes. Shortly thereafter we ended up detouring to his home, in the small village of Cloyne. Gerard stopped the car and encouraged us to “hop out and have a look.” So we did. Gerard was proud of his young vines and quite happy to share his plans to begin producing wine in the near future (a wine release trip may be in my future).

Next stop on our “no need to hurry” journey took us up a long, tree-lined driveway, clearly marked “private” with bold signage. Gerard assured us it was no problem to continue up the winding drive. Soon enough we were staring at a fire-gutted “big house” — one of the many stately manors burned out during the Irish Revolution of 1919-’23. 

Gerard shared the history of the ruins, wrapped in overgrown foliage, a stark reminder of Ireland’s turbulent past. We could have spent an entire day in his company, but soon enough we hugged and bid farewell to him in Cork, grateful for the spontaneous morning tour (though at times, Fern wondered if we were going to be held hostage at his home).

Our last days were spent in Ferns, our ancestral homeland. It’s a village filled with ancient castles and history, and the well (containing healing waters) of our ancestral grandfather’s namesake, St. Mogue. After nine grandchildren, my holy water supply was nearly depleted. Nimble Fern knelt easily and drew a bottle from the well for future family milestones. 

To share the Ireland I know and love with my girls will be a trip we long remember — likely to be reminisced over with tea and cake, and there is none finer than Ballymaloe’s sponge cake. It’s honestly worth the effort! Ith do leòr!

Ballymaloe sponge cake
You won’t be sorry you’ve taken the time to make this rich and luscious cake. I like it best with fresh raspberries. Serves 8-10.

Ingredients:

• 3 large eggs, separated 

• 1 cup + 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

• 1 cup all-purpose flour 

• 1 teaspoon baking powder 

• 2 cups heavy cream 

• ¼ cup icing sugar (plus more for sifting over top) 

• 1 teaspoon vanilla 

• Fruit for filling, like berries, or ⅓ cup of jam or marmalade

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter and line two 8-inch cake tins with parchment paper, then flour lightly, tapping out any excess flour. Using an electric whisk, beat the egg yolks with the cup of sugar for 2 minutes at high speed. Add 75 mL (¼ cup + 2 tablespoons) warm water, then continue whisking for about 10 minutes until really creamy, light and fluffy. 

Put the flour and baking powder into a sieve, then gently sieve and fold into the egg mix in three batches. Whisk the egg whites with the remaining two tablespoons of sugar until they hold firm peaks, then fold them very gently into the egg and flour mixture. Divide the mixture between the two tins and bake for 20 minutes. 

Turn the cakes out immediately onto a wire rack and flip them over again, before allowing them to cool completely before filling. 

Instructions to assemble the cake: Whip the cream with the icing sugar until it forms stiff peaks. Place one layer of the cake on a cake stand (peel off the parchment paper underneath) spread over half the cream, place the berries over top, spread over the other half of the cream then place the second layer of cake on top, being sure the crustier side is on the top. 

Sift over some icing sugar to decorate and serve immediately or refrigerate for a few hours before serving.